Cullen Kevin John Chardonnay was renamed in 2006 in honour of Dr. Kevin John Cullen, co-founder of Cullen Wines. Crafted from own-rooted Wente clone Chardonnay vines planted in 1976 in Wilyabrup, the wine is a pure expression of the estate’s biodynamic philosophy and one of Australia’s most revered Chardonnay releases.
The fruit was hand harvested across five separate picking dates, timed according to the biodynamic calendar, including an initial harvest on a Full Moon Fruit Day. Whole bunch basket pressing was followed by natural primary and malolactic fermentation in puncheons, using only indigenous microflora. The wine matured for seven months in French oak puncheons, 50% new, without fining, filtration or cold stabilisation, preserving both texture and vineyard character.
Brilliant straw with green highlights, the bouquet is intensely perfumed, opening with citrus blossom and white florals layered over ripe pear and apple. As the wine evolves, more savoury and exotic notes emerge, including dried fig, curry leaf and a subtle sea spray minerality.
The palate is poised, vibrant and finely structured, unfolding through layers of citrus blossom, pear, apple and stone fruit, intertwined with Mediterranean nuances of fig and date. Gentle spice tones of turmeric and ginger bring further complexity, while a delicate touch of honeysuckle softens the finish. Bright mineral acidity provides energy and persistence, carrying the wine through a long, firm and exceptionally clean finish.
'The Lord giveth and the Lord taketh away. A warmer than usual vintage, and dry one, resulted in very small crops, so lovers of this wonderful Chardonnay will need to move quickly to ensure they do not miss out. The good news is that the “tiny crops”meant concentrated fruit and a high quality vintage. It does seem that all Margaret River ever does is provide variations on the theme of high quality vintages. Not that we are complaining. As always, harvesting is dictated by the biodynamic calendar and occurred over five different Fruit and Flower harvest days, with two batches harvested on a Moon opposite Saturn Full Moon event. Mock all you like, but the results are evident for all to see in the bottle. A portion of the fruit went into amphorae for two days’ skin contact, while the remainder was whole bunch pressed to puncheons for a wild fermentation (as in a fermentation simply left to nature, with no inoculated yeast additions). Maturation was for seven months in puncheons, with 50% of them new oak. Shimmering lemon gold in colour, this is certainly youthful but wonderfully balanced and seriously concentrated. On the nose, we have notes of stone fruits, jasmine, peaches, nectarines and beautifully integrated oak. The structure is seamless and there is a fine line of acidity running the full length of the wine. Ideally, leave this for two to three years and then drink it over the following ten to twelve. It really does need a little bit of time to completely come together. The intensity is maintained throughout, and the wine is seriously persistent. Notwithstanding the need for a little more time, this is yet another exquisite addition to the Kevin John series. Stunning stuff.' 98 POINTS - Ken Gargett, Winepilot
"Pale colour. Fresh grapefruit, nougat, vanilla, roasted almond aromas with hints of limes. Beautifully balanced and classical in structure with ample grapefruit, lemon curd, lime flavours,
fine slinky textures, lovely mid-palate creaminess, underlying marzipan, roasted cashew notes and fresh long saline/supple acidity. Builds up chalky/ al dente at the finish with persistent minerally notes. Delicious to drink with superb purity and flow. Seven months maturation in 50% puncheons. Drink now – 2035+ 13.5% alc" 97 POINTS - Andrew Caillard MW
